Lure Retrieval ?

[SportJet120]

OK, so we all did it more than once. Tried to get that bait un snagged. Those musky baits can be costly. I have seen guys swim to get then back. Whats your method and what type of lure retriever do you use? Gary

[Red Childress]

Get a hold of Frank (aka...toothyfishman) here on this forum and have him make you one for your type of water. If you are river fishing in current, especially trolling deeper water, he can make you an 'extra heavy' retriever that is bullet proof and cheap enough to pay for itself the first time you use it.

[skidoo]

i got 1 from frank ..ie.. toothyfisherman and i would think that there are none better than his......great craftsmanship and built like a tank.......in 1 yr i (we) saved 200 $ in lost lures..........a cant go wrong in a 20$ investment !!!!!!!

skidoo............

[Joe M]

I also agree. Frank makes great lure retrievers for a fair price. I got 1 for the lakes and the bigger one for the rivers.

[SportJet120]

Sounds like Frank is the go to for lure retrievers. I was just wondering what "type" of retriever most use. I manufactured mine from brass the shape of a donut. Then attached three short pieces of chain 5-6" with # 10 SHC screws. Cut thur the brass donut with a .060 blade to slide over line. Then attached heavy parachute cord for retrieval. Is this the style everyone is using? I would post a pic if I could figure out how to. I am planning to make a heavier one for the river current. Any suggestions on the weight for one? Gary

[Red Childress]

Frank will see this thread this morning and usually replies quickly.

[toothyfishman]

Hey guys thanks for all the great replies! It sure sucks loosing lures. It's nice to just buy a new one in a new color rather that having to replace a lost solider.

My heavy "river model" is just at 2 pounds and I make my chains extra long on that model for Plows, Hookers, Jakes, etc etc. You want to remember that where ever your retriever stop sliding down the line you need to be able to reach the back hook with your chain length. I run a 1/4" bolt through my chains that is bolted through the retriever body that is almost 2" diameter.
Not sure your #10 bolts would hold up to a serious snag. I've straightened out all three hooks on a Plow once to get it back. I was worried that I wasn't going to get it or the retriever back until it popped and about sent me overboard on the other side.

I normally have them on Ebay but my home computer is toast right now so I haven't been listing any. If your interested in the mega model I sell them for $20 plus shipping. The mid size is still 1.5 pounds and i sell them for $15.
Sounds like you like to fab your own stuff so if you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them. If you want to buy one we can set something up and I can send you one. Hopefully I can get my computer back up and running.

I use two reverse facing eyebolts welded to the body slightly opened for my line guide. My whole deal is all welded and bolted through. The only thing you could possible break would be the chain or the rope you choose to tie on to it. You couldn't break the chain by hand.

[toothyfishman]

If you visit Chaut. Lake I also have some at Happy Hooker so you could stop in and pick one up there or check out the design if your wanting to make up your own.

[w pa muskie bound]

i use one we made just about the same as sportjet,s,only our donut is steel with chains welded,then for the trees we use a push pole,opens up to about 6 foot reach up and hook the hooks or grabs a branch to pull it closer,works really well for stumps under water also saves alot of time instead of useing a lure knocker to get them off of stumps.

[SportJet120]

Thanks Toothy for the info. I am new to musky fishing and have never thrown big baits as such. The retrievers I have made are on a smaller scale. I am going to make some heavier ones out of stainless with some long heavy duty chains. 1 1/2 - 2 # sounds good. Thanks again for your help. Gary

[toothyfishman]

The #3 chain is what I use and a 1/4" bolt will go through the chain links depending on what brand you get. Some will and some won't. The brands that won't just take a tapered punch and run it through the link and a light tap will spread it out far enough to get the bolt through. I don't even use a hammer just the palm of my hand, light tap.
I don't think I'd use any smaller chain. It's a 90# working load even though it won't break at #90.